Saving seeds of most garden vegetables and fruit is pretty easy. It just requires a little patience and a sacrifice of one or two of your best tomatoes, peppers, melons, squash, or other crops for the seed harvest.
One of the most joyous feelings for a gardener is to see that first ripe cucumber, pepper or tomato on the plant you grew from a seedling (your baby’s all grown up!). Excitement boils over, as you can’t wait to taste the fruits of your labor.
But if you’re a seed saver, you may have to let that first fruit or vegetable ripen to the point of near bursting and being inedible. That’s because the first-to-ripen fruit or vegetable is the earliest product of the hardiest plant and that’s exactly the best seed to save for next year’s garden. That first-to-ripen seed will be most likely to produce the most robust plants, able to survive pest attacks and weather extremes better than its brothers and sisters.
But that’s not to say that the seeds from later-ripening fruits and vegetables will produce inferior seeds. If they’re from that same, first-to-bear plant, any disease-free, pest-free produce will be fine. The idea is, you want to harvest seeds only from the highest quality plants in your garden.
Why save garden seeds when buying them is so easy?
That’s always a good point. Garden seeds are plentiful most years and you can find nearly anything you want online or at your local garden center: heirloom or hybrid seeds, non-GMO, organic, take your pick. Seeds are also only a few dollars – for the price of buying 1 plant at your local garden center, you can get dozens of seeds, and many times of plants not sold at garden centers. So there are advantages to saving seeds, depending on what’s important to you.
- Fruits, vegetables, and flowers that have acclimated to your local weather, soil conditions, and pests are less likely to be stressed by them. This will help to encourage a successful crop every year.
- Heirloom crops may have been passed down in a family for many generations and you want to preserve that plant’s gene pool.
- You know the source of the seed and how it was grown, which is especially important to organic gardeners.
- Unique plants you won’t find at most garden centers.
- It’s fun and a cool science experiment.
How to save flower seeds
Saving flower seeds is a lot like selective breeding. You’ll want to save the seeds from the flower that looks best so that you’ll have just as beautiful a flower next year. Look for the plant with the best growth, best foliage, best flower, and best color, and harvest the seeds only from that specimen. Sunflowers are an easy flower to start with, as the time to harvest the seeds is very obvious (when the flower head points towards the ground and starts to brown), the seeds are easy to see and remove, and their germination rate is high. But be warned that your local wildlife knows when the seeds are good, too. Place a paper bag over the flower head as it gets close to maturity to protect it from hungry birds and squirrels.
How to save vegetable seeds and fruit seeds
The seed saving methods for each vegetable and fruit can be considerably different. If you’re saving seeds from a plant more complex than beans, tomatoes, or peppers, it’s worth your while to spend a little time researching the techniques specific to the seeds you want to save. The book that introduced me to seed saving and one I highly recommend is Saving Seeds: The Gardener’s Guide to Growing and Saving Vegetable and Flower Seeds.
Preparing vegetable and flower seeds for storing
Once you’ve harvested the seeds, allow them to dry for 5-7 days at room temperature on a ceramic plate, paper towel, or coffee filter. Do not store seeds damp, as they’ll rot. You can tell they’re dry when they easily snap in half. When dry, put the seeds in a standard white paper envelope or glassine envelope and mark it with the following information:
- The plant the seed came from, including specific cultivar if known.
- The date the plant bloomed or fruited.
- The company that originally produced the seed.
- The month, day, and year you harvested the seed.
Tips on storing garden seeds
Store your saved seeds in their envelopes, inside mason jars, the same kind used for canning. Mason jars are airtight, with metal tops that lock. Humidity is a saved seed’s enemy, so to ensure dryness in the jar, add a small packet of silica gel – the kind that’s frequently shipped in boxes with electronic devices or food. This is not a critical step, but it might allow your seeds to last an additional season or two.
Most seeds can be stored from 1-5 years if you keep them in a mason jar in a refrigerator – how long your saved seeds remain viable depends on the species and the quality of the seeds at harvest. Be sure to keep them away from the freezer side of the fridge, as you don’t want the seeds to come anywhere near freezing. See our post on how long you can store saved seeds.
Do not save hybrid seeds (F1)
If your seed packet indicates that the seed is an F1, don’t save the seeds from the plant, because the offspring will not look like the parent plant you grew the first year. F1 seed is the first generation of a hybrid, the cross of two distinctly different parent plants, selected for quality or disease resistance. The seed from an F1 hybrid may produce a plant that looks like one of the parent plants, but the fruit may appear very different in shape, texture, or taste. I’ve experienced this many times with “volunteer” tomatoes that pop up in my garden.
Seed Saving Guide for the Most Common Vegetables and Fruit
Definitions:
An annual plant produces seed the same year it’s planted.
A biennial plant produces seed in the second year.
Vernalization is the forcing of a plant’s flowering process by exposure to prolonged winter temperatures or by an artificial equivalent.
| Plant | Days to Germination | Planting depth | Lifecycle | Pollination | Seed Saving Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Arugula | 3-10 | 1/4″ | Annual | Insect | Arugula forms flower stalks with seed pods. The seed pods will turn light brown and become brittle at maturity. The harvested flower stalks should be dried until the seeds become too hard to dent with your fingernail. If the pods are dry, they will release their seeds easily. Open pods to remove seeds. |
| Beans (all types, including Cowpeas) | 7-14 | 1″ | Annual | Self-pollinating | Allow bean seed pods to ripen on the plant and become hard, brittle, and dry. Mature seed pods will start to discolor. Bean seed pods split open at maturity, but the pods of many varieties can be left on the plant to fully dry without fear of losing the seeds. Bean pods can be handpicked, or whole plants can be cut at the base. Open pods to remove seeds. |
| Beets | 5-10 | 1/2″ | Biennial | Wind | Note: If saving seed, do not grow Beets near Swiss Chard as they will cross-pollinate. In the fall of the first year, identify the beets that you would like to use for seed. When the tops begin to yellow and flop over, tie the stalks to stakes for support. In the spring of the 2nd year, thin plants to 18″ apart. Plants will produce flowers and stalks that hold the seeds. When the seed spikes are dry on the plant, cut them off and place them in a paper bag to dry for 2 weeks. Once seeds are completely dry, rub the seed spikes to separate the seeds. |
| Broccoli | 3-10 | 1/4″ | Biennial | Insect | Broccoli seeds form from the heads that are typically eaten, so heads must remain in place on the plant. In the 2nd year, the plant will flower, then send up shoots from the head. Seed pods will form on the shoots. Allow pods to mature to hard and brittle on the plant. Open dry pods to harvest seeds. |
| Brussels Sprouts | 3-10 | 1/4″ | Biennial | Insect | Space Brussels Sprouts plants 18-24 inches apart and support them with stakes. To ensure viable seeds, save seeds from at least 5 plants. After flowering and producing seed pods, allow pods to dry on the plant and turn brown. The seeds inside will mature and brown. Gather seeds by cutting entire branches. Vernalization required. |
| Cabbage | 7-12 | 1/4″ | Biennial | Insect | Cabbage plants will produce flowers and seed pods in year 2. Allow pods to mature to hard and brittle on the plant. Open dry pods to harvest seeds. Vernalization required. |
| Carrot | 7-14 | 1/4″ | Biennial | Insect | In the second year, thin carrot plants to 12″ apart. Plants will flower. Allow flowers to dry and harvest seeds from dried flowers. To ensure the viability of seeds, save seeds from at least 5 plants. Vernalization required. |
| Cauliflower | 3-10 | 1/4″ | Biennial | Insect | Cauliflower will produce flowers and seed pods in year 2. Allow pods to mature to hard and brittle on the plant. Pods will become brown as they dry and the seeds inside will also mature and turn brown. Open dry pods to harvest seeds. To ensure viable seeds, save seeds from at least 5 plants. Vernalization required. |
| Celery | 10-20 | 1/8″ | Biennial | Insect | In second year, thin celery plants to 24″ apart. Plants will flower. Allow flowers to dry and harvest seeds from dried flowers. |
| Collard Greens | 3-10 | 1/4″ | Biennial | Insect | In year 2, collard greens produce flowers and seed pods. Allow pods to mature to hard and brittle on the plant. Open dry pods to harvest seeds. Vernalization required. |
| Corn | 4-21 | 1″ | Annual | Wind | Allow ears of corn to dry hard on stalks. Harvest ears before the first frost and pick seeds from the cob. |
| Cucumber | 4-10 | 1″ | Annual | Insect | Allow cucumber fruit to over-ripen on the vine past the edible stage. Skin will be tough and discolored while the fruit softens. It is best to wait several weeks after the color changes before extracting the seeds. To save the seeds, cut cucumbers in half lengthwise and scoop out seeds and any surrounding pulp from the seed cavity. Place the seeds and pulp into a jar with some water. Leave the lid off the jar. The mixture needs to undergo fermentation for 1-3 days in an open container at room temperature to remove the pulp from the seeds. When fermentation is complete, add more water to the container and stir. The pulp and lightweight seeds will float to the top – discard this. The viable seeds will settle at the bottom of the container. Rinse the viable seeds clean and set the seeds out to dry on coffee filters or paper towels until they can easily be snapped in half. |
| Eggplant | 10-14 | 1/2″ | Annual | Self-pollinating & Insect | Allow eggplant fruit to over-ripen, past edible stage. Skin will be dull, tough, and discolored with a yellow or brownish cast. Remove seeds from inside eggplant and pour into a jar with water. Shake vigorously to separate the seeds from the pulp. Viable seeds will settle to the bottom of the container. Rinse and dry on coffee filters or paper towels. |
| Endive | 5-7 | 1/4″ | Annual | Self | When the endive forms flower stalks with seed pods, allow the pods to dry hard and brittle. Open pods to remove seeds. |
| Gourd | 3-10 | 1″ | Annual | Insect | Allow the gourd fruit to dry on the vine and harvest before the first hard frost. Separate seeds from the pulp, rinse, and dry. |
| Kale | 3-10 | 1/4″ | Biennial | Insect | In year 2, kale will produce seed pods. Allow pods to mature to hard and brittle on the plant. Open dry pods to harvest seeds. |
| Kohlrabi | 3-10 | 1/4″ | Biennial | Insect | In the 2nd year, thin kohlrabi to 24″ apart. Plants will produce flowers and seed pods. After flowering, harvest seeds when pods are dry and brittle. |
| Leek | 5-7 | 1/4″ | Biennial | Insect | In the 2nd year, thin leeks to 12″ apart. Plants will produce scapes, flowers, and seed capsules. Capsules will split open to reveal seeds. Let flowers dry on the plant and then harvest the seeds. To harvest, cut the scape 6-8″ below the seed head. Place in an open container or bag in a well-ventilated space to dry for at least 1 week. To ensure viable seeds, save seeds from at least 5 plants. Vernalization required. |
| Lettuce | 7-14 | 1/8″ | Annual | Self | Lettuce will form flower stalks later in the season. When flowers open and form a feathery chaff, shake the seed heads into a bag or envelope. Seeds on the same lettuce plant can mature at different rates, so you can have multiple seed harvests in one season. |
| Melon (all types) | 4-10 | 1/2″ – 1″ | Annual | Insect | Allow melon fruit to ripen completely, about 20 days past the normal time you would harvest for eating. Remove seeds from the fruit, rinse in a colander, and dry on paper towels or coffee filters. |
| Mustard Greens | 4-7 | 1/2″ | Annual or Biennial | Self | When growing for seed, space mustard green plants 24-36″ apart. Staking plants is recommended. Plant will send up stalks and seed pods. Seeds are mature when pods dry to a light brown color. Seeds can be gathered by cutting branches. To ensure viability, save seeds from at least 5 mustard plants. |
| Okra | 6-18 | 1/2″ | Annual | Self-pollinating & Insect | The flowers of okra open at different times, starting at the base of the plant and progressing upward. The same is true of the seed pods. Let the seed pods dry to brown, hard, and brittle. Collect pods, split open, and harvest seeds. Break the okra pods with your hands and work them until they release seeds. |
| Onions (including shallots) | 4-10 | 1/4″ | Biennial | Insect | In the 2nd year, thin onion plants to 8″ apart. Flowers and seed heads will form during the late summer of the second season. After flowering, allow flowers and seed heads to dry on the plant. Gather the flower heads in a paper bag. Shake the bag to free the seeds. Allow the seeds to air-dry for a few days before storing. |
| Peas | 7-14 | 1/2″ | Annual | Self | Allow pea pods to remain on the vine until they turn brown, are very hard, dry, and brittle. This is about four weeks after the time you would harvest them for eating. Split pods to remove seeds. If pea pods are not completely dry before the first frost, pull the plants up by the roots and hang them in a cool, dry location until the pods are brown and dry. Seeds need about 6 weeks to dry before storing. |
| Peppers (Sweet or Hot) | 14-18 | 1/4″ | Annual | Self-pollinating & Insect | Allow pepper fruits to remain on the plant until roughly 2 weeks past fully ripe. Cut the top of the pepper and remove the seeds. Rinse, and let dry on coffee filters or paper towels. Wear gloves when handling hot pepper seeds and avoid touching your eyes or nose while working. To maintain a variety’s diversity, save seeds from at least 5 plants. |
| Potatoes | 14-28 | 6-8″ | Annual | Self-pollinating & Insect | At harvest time, save the best potatoes to create seed potatoes the following spring. |
| Radish | 3-12 | 1/2″ | Annual | Insect | Radishes will form flower stalks and seed pods. Seeds are ready for harvest when pods are brown, dry, and brittle. After they are cut, the mature seed stalks should be left to dry completely in a sheltered location. Radish pods may not release their seeds easily when broken open, and it may be necessary to crush the pods to extract the seeds. Radishes readily cross-pollinate, so isolate your radish crop from other radish varieties. To ensure viable seeds, save seeds from at least 5 plants. |
| Rutabaga | 3-10 | 1/2″ | Biennial | Insect | In the 2nd year, thin rutabaga plants to 18″. The plant will form flower stalks and seed pods. Seeds are ready for harvest when pods are dry and brittle. Split pods to save seeds. |
| Salsify | 20-24 | 1/2″ | Biennial | Insect | In 2nd year, thin salsify plants to 6″. Collect seed heads when dry. |
| Spinach | 5-7 | 1/2″ | Annual | Wind | Spinach will form flower stalks. When flowers dry on the stalk, harvest seeds when they are very hard. To ensure viable seeds, save seeds from at least 10 plants. Spinach continues to grow, flower, and set seeds throughout the season. Seeds ripen in order of their appearance, from the lowest portion of the branch to the upper portion. When the seeds are mature, they turn from green to tan or brown. Individual branches can be clipped or whole plants cut at the base when at least 2/3rds of the seeds are mature. They should be left to dry in a well-ventilated area for 10 days. |
| Summer Squash | 5-10 | 1″ | Annual | Insect | Leave summer squash on the vine until the skin is tough and discolored, about 20 days after you would pick it for eating. Remove seeds from squash, rinse, and dry. Fruits are ready to harvest when the rind is too hard to dent with a fingernail and the stem is dry. Winter squash are typically mature when fruits are normally harvested for eating: after they change color and fruit stems are dry. To remove squash seeds from the fruits, split the squash in half by making a shallow cut through the rind from top to bottom on both sides and separating the two halves. Cutting through the center of the fruit can damage seeds. Next, scoop out the seeds, and free them from the pulp as much as possible. Transfer the pulp and seeds to a wide-mesh strainer, or any container with openings large enough for pulp and strings to pass through. Run the seeds under a strong stream of water to dislodge the seeds from the pulp. Immediately after cleaning, rinsed seeds should be spread out to dry in a thin layer on screens or coffee filters. |
| Swiss Chard | 5-10 | 1/2″ | Biennial | Wind | Thin swiss chard plants to 18″ apart in the second season. Plants will produce flowers. Let the flowers dry on the plant. Harvest seeds from dried flowers. |
| Tomatoes | 7-14 | 1/4″ | Annual | Self-pollinating & Insect | Allow tomatoes to ripen completely on the plant – tomatoes should be soft but not mushy. Cut the tomato in half and squeeze out the pulp and seeds from the inside of the fruit into a container. Leave the container sit for 2-3 days at room temperature but out of direct sunlight. The pulp will ferment which separates the tomato seeds from the “jelly” that surrounds them. Viable tomato seeds will sink to the bottom of this mixture, and dead seeds will float. When a small amount of mold begins to form on the mixture, pour off the floating solids and dead seeds and thoroughly rinse the sunken seeds in running water with a fine mesh strainer. Once thoroughly cleaned, place seeds on a screen or coffee filter to dry for 5-7 days. Separate varieties by 10-50 feet to avoid cross-pollination. |
| Turnip | 3-10 | 1/4″ | Biennial | Insect | In year 2, thin turnip plants to 12″ apart. The plant will develop flowers and seed pods. Harvest seeds when they are very hard and pods are dry and brittle. |
| Winter Squash | 5-10 | 1″ | Annual | Insect | Harvest ripe winter squash fruit before the first hard frost. Winter squash is typically mature when fruits are normally harvested for eating, which is after they change color and fruit stems are dry. All types of squash benefit from a period of post-harvest ripening during which the seeds continue to mature. Fruits are typically held for at least 20 days beyond fruit maturity before their seeds are extracted. To remove squash seeds from the fruits, split the squash in half by making a shallow cut through the rind from top to bottom on both sides and separating the two halves. Cutting through the center of the fruit can damage seeds. Next, scoop out the seeds, and free them from the pulp as much as possible. Transfer the pulp and seeds to a wide-mesh strainer, or any container with openings large enough for pulp and strings to pass through. Run the seeds under a strong stream of water to dislodge the seeds from the pulp. Immediately after cleaning, rinsed seeds should be spread out to dry in a thin layer on screens or coffee filters. |
this article was firstly published by https://www.bigblogofgardening.com